COLOR SCHEME: SHADES OF BLUES AND WHITES

The underwater theme demanded the use of different shades of blues for the main attractions of the collection and translucent whites for the diving suits with light blue head piece accents.

The color scheme has appeared in the designer’s work before, notably in the Capsule Collection made for The Museum of Science-Fiction in Washington DC, in 2021.

Conceptually the S/S 2026 ‘Under Pressure’ collection precedes the F/W 2025 ‘Dark Knightress’.

S/S 2026 ‘UNDER PRESSURE’ AT LFW

The silicone collection was showcased at London Fashion Week on September 21st, 2025 with Oxford Fashion Studio at Devonshire Square.

SCUBA-DIVING THEME

The pieces refer to a scuba-diving theme with earbuds on swimming cap-like hoodies attached to diving suits and silicone “oxygen” masks. As all collections, this one is no exception to be a reflection of the designer’s emotional journey and speaks of a time when while juggling amongst different challenges, it was hard to keep her head above water, and went through experiences ‘under (high) pressure’.

FLOATING PIECES

Some of the silicone bodysuits are left open on the side “seams” so while the model is walking on the runway the piece is visibly floating and some even if are closed have floating geometric flipper-like attachments.

SILICONE, THE DESIGNER’S SIGNATURE MATERIAL

The designer have been experimenting with silicone rubber since 2014, since the launch of her first ever entirely silicone collection the S/S 2015 ‘CLONES’. The material resonates well with topics the designer enjoys exploring, and has benefits like water resistance, flexibility, sustainability.

TECHNOLOGICAL HISTORY

The first time the designer used 3D cylinders in her designs was the S/S 2024 ‘YOLO . . .this time’ collection’s silicone cover-ups. In the current collection she made more robust, thick-walled cylinders and tubes to amplify the underwater experience.

CYLINDRICAL DESIGN ELEMENTS

The designer has been using circles, cones, cylinders throughout her experiments. The application of circle based shapes is crucially important while working with a flexible and slippery material like silicone, as the circumference tension or “hoop stress” of the circle allows to keep the shape intact. While with rectangular incisions the shapes can easily be distorted and also can make the silicone more vulnerable to tears, circles are a very safe choice.

THE TRICOLOR BODYSUIT

The tricolor bodysuit is another signature element that shows up in multiple collections, with minor variations and with the colors adjusted to the overall theme.

THE TRICOLOR HISTORY

You will find these three-colored bodysuits in the S/S 2023 ‘PINK FLOW’ in baby pink, translucent, fuchsia colors with straps, in the F/W 2024 ‘LOVE/ADDICTION’ in black, translucent and red, strapless and most recently in the F/W 2025 ‘DARK KNIGHTRESS’ with a turtleneck in glittery silver, translucent and black and with a lot of spike details around the neck and on the outside “seams”. Currently, the newest addition is in the S/S 2026 ‘UNDER PRESSURE” in light blue, translucent and maritime blue with bra cups and visible outside “seams”.

RUNWAY  LOOKS

Photography: iMaxtree

CLOSE-UPS

Photography: Andy He

VIDEO

Videography: Florence Hughes, Oxford Fashion Studio

BACKSTAGE MOMENTS

Backstage Photography: Ilona Balon